Category Archives: Trip Reports

Trip Reports and Photos

Middle Fork Rogue – March 13, 2016

My morning started off with a quick email check and confirmation from the Mt Ashland Ski Patrol director that the mountain would be open. They got about a foot on Saturday and it snowed all Sunday night.

On the drive to the mountain, I received a call that the mountain was closed and the lifts would not run due to high wind. I had to quickly scrabble for a different plan to not let the day slip away.

I sent out some text messages and got a reply from Hunter Connelly that said “945 shady cove sf”. I read it twice and cold not decipher it. Was it an address? I quickly called and it meant to meet at 9:45 at Shady Cove the plan was to do the South Fork of the Rogue.

This barely gave me enough time drive to my house and swap out my ski gear for paddling gear and make the arrangement point on time. I met Hunter and Jared Sandeen and we started driving up to the put-in. We decided to check the Middle Fork gage on the way up since they are both close, share the same takeout and you drive by the Middle to get to the South Fork.

When we got to the Middle, we all got out and looked at the gage and the flow. It was one of those all day rains that was mixed with cold and chilly air. Hunter and Jared had both done the South Fork and the Middle Fork but I had not done either. We looked at the gage, then at the flow and stood around discussing, the flow. I was getting soaked and had no idea what either meant so I quickly got back in the car. The gage showed about 2.4-2.6.

We then drove to the South Fork and repeated looking at the flow. We looked over the upstream side of the bridge at the rock in the center. There was water flowing over it which meant high. The consensus was that both were higher than either had done them before. The big question was how much higher and how did that translate downstream. Was this still a manageable flow? I was getting soaked again and quickly jumped back in the car. I left the decision up to them since I had never done either.

They came back to the car and said “Middle Fork” so we drove back to the put-in. While there, I was losing my stoke. I was partially wet from standing in the rain and starting to get cold. I waited till the others got dressed and was the last out of the vehicle. I tried to catch my second stoke as we put on.

In the first couple miles we had 3-4 tree portages. It was flat water but the portages were no easy task. It was the choice of stay close to the shore and deal with mud and collapsing soil or go up into the woods and try to poke a hole through the underbrush. Different techniques were used with varying success. The good news was this was the last of the trees.

After passing the trees, we were floating down, and all of a sudden there was this enormous water fall coming in on the right. It was a 20 footer dropping over a 40 footer, etc.. Basically falling from the sky. It was then trying to push itself through the trees to join the Middle Fork. It looked like the trees were squirting out water. So beautiful yet so drastically changed the nature of the river. It felt like the river doubled in flow. Not truly that much but it gave it that feel.

We soon got down to the first major rapid. Because the flow was high we had to be super careful about eddy space and not crowding. Jared hoped out to scout and quickly gave me the hand signal “1,2,3”. Which translated to left, middle, right. I followed Hunter through and it was fun but you could tell with this flow there was some spice to the run.

At the next spot I got out and took a look. The bottom had a pointed rock in the bottom. From the top, it looked like you could go left or right of the pointed rock. After describing it to Jared, he said, memory told him the bottom left was the better route. He went first and then Hunter.

By the time I got into my boat, and fired off the drop, I came into a small eddy on river right at the bottom. Jared was out of his boat and quickly gave us directions on the next rapid. I was in the eddy and could see that there was a small seam to cross then a big horizon line. Jared said to go off the left side of the hump and then hit the lower flowing charging hard back to the right.

As I started taking paddle strokes out of the eddy, I realized how with this style of boating how strong the trust level needs to be with your paddling partners. I was trusting Jared that he could assess the drop, my abilities, and his abilities to describe where to go. If he thought any of those were a “no go”, he would signal to me that I needed to look for myself. I have boated in these situations with him often. As I pulled out of the eddy I felt that even though I could no see over that horizon that I trusted him. Just as he described, as I came off the boof charging to the right the current carried me down and into the eddy on the right. This would turn out to be the steepest single drop on the run.

A little farther down, Jared knew that there was a hard rapid that let straight into the portage rapid. The portage rapid is right before entering the canyon. Hence stacked up issues if someone got in trouble. We all got out to scout this drop just to visually see where we wanted to be while in our boat and if things did not go as planned, and where to swim too. There was a large eddy to the right before the portage which gave us all relief.

I went first and had probably my best line of an single rapid on the run. Right where I wanted to be. Jared came next and got shoved to the right, mostly because he was in such a small boat but better right than left. Hunter was taking pictures and I got out with a rope while he went up and aced the drop.

The Portage rapid was heinous looking. The water gets tight against the left wall then drops off this 10-15 foot drop onto this jumble of rocks. Today there was enough water to cover up the jumble of rocks but the jumble of rocks then formed this massive pour over that created a beat down waiting to happen.

We ate a snack and basked in our surroundings. Even thought it was pouring rain, at this point, it really did not matter. I felt like I was in Shangri-La. A magical place that not many could experience.

At this point, this is where you enter the gorge. The gorge is like Takelma on the North Fork of the Rogue but way higher. There are two hard rapids below this point. One is the confluence where the South Fork of the Rogue and the Middle Fork come together and then one below.

The Middle Fork Rogue gorge. Photo by Hunter Connolly.
The Middle Fork Rogue gorge. Photo by Hunter Connolly.

We started into the Gorge. Jared went first and I went second. I then caught a eddy and waited for Hunter. It was not hard, entering the gorge but something bad here could spell major disaster, so our senses were heightened. I caught a super small eddy and held onto the wall and waited.

Hunter came down and passed me. Jared was out of his boat on river left scouting the confluence rapid as best he could from his vantage point. Hunter was river right below me and I was facing upstream holding on to the rock wall.

Jared gave us directions but because of my location, I could no turn around or even look over my shoulder. I asked Hunter if there was room for me in his eddy and he said to stay put. After the verbal, Hunter said he was going. I wanted to follow fairly close since I was at a disadvantage from my blind location.

The line, was to stay left through some rocks, back to the middle, then at the confluence stay way left and then come back to the right as you come off the main drop.

I see Hunter go through the first squeeze and he gets backendered some and has to give a big right brace to stay upright. Jared is standing there and as I pass, he yells, “farther left”. I oblige as best I can and have to brace hard also but grateful for not backendering.

I then move out to the middle and see the confluence coming. I look up and see that Hunter has caught an eddy on left, I glance up stream of the South Fork and see a water fall and a bunch of water coming down. I glance downstream and see the line forming. I have less than a split second to decide to try to catch the eddy Hunter is in, or keep going and run the drop. My eyes are locked on the route and I just keep going with the flow. The drop is big and water was powerful having seemed like flow just doubled again!! I had a great line and hollered at the upstream crowd to let them know I made it through.

I then eddied out and waited for them to come through with big smiles on their faces. Comments were made how South Fork seemed stout and if we would have chosen that option it would have been big.

The next section was mellow for while and once again we soaked up the gorge and the special place we were in.

The last drop we all got out of our boats and looked. It had a big hole at the bottom and two possible lines, left where you ride a curler off a rock then off the wall or right where there was a sloped hole. The bad part was the middle of the hole and left or right there was potential to get into the hole but looked passable.

We talked about this rapid extensively and about the best way to set safety. One suggestion was a rope but you would have to hold onto the wall and when thrown to the swimmer, he could pull the person off the rock since there was no where to anchor in. Also the thrower would just be pulling the swimmer back into the hole. We discussed all three running it at the same time and hoping for the best. Finally we decided that two of us would run right and the third would wait. The option was that if the first two had issue, the third could try the left line. Sometimes you just have to go with the best option even though it may not be the option that you want.

After all that discussion Hunter went first and cleaned the right line, I went next and never got my face wet. Jared also cleaned it. After all that discussion it looked worse than it was.

At this point the gorge fades away and it is a couple of fun miles to Lost Creek Lake. While paddling down, we found a Werner paddle in some backed up logs. Jared said, he knew the owner and was with him a few years ago when he lost it. We took turns paddling the lost paddle out.

We shortly came to the North Fork Rogue confluence and paddled the short distance up to begin the hike up. We all sat in our boats at the takeout. Discussing, laughing and reminiscing about the day, letting the adrenaline run from us before starting the upward hike to the vehicle.

The Middle Fork is one of the more unique runs I have done. I can’t wait to see the South Fork.

Tuolumne River – March 12, 2016

Incredible one-day trip and my first time down the T. We were carefully watching the winter storms rolling through and waited for a perfect window. The T was hovering around 3k and a sunny Saturday was in the forecast. I called a friend and he recommended:

1) Arrange a shuttle
2) Be careful if it goes above 6k
3) Watch out for Grey’s Grind Stone at high flows.

All was helpful beta. We put-on at 11AM and took out by 5 PM. Drinking beers at the Iron Door by 6:30.

Video from Clavey Falls on the Tuolumne River:

Illinois River – February 5, 2016

flow

Skip was making the move from Bozeman to the Kern and was coming through Ashland. I was working on Thursday and busy on Saturday. But the Illinois was at a perfect flow and our friends were doing a two-day launching on Friday. What better time to try to squeeze in a one-day trip, right?

9:45 a.m. – push off from Miami Bar
11:15 – pass Pine Flat
12:30 – stop for a quick bite at South Bend
1:00 – scout Green Wall
2:00 – pass Collier Creek
3:55 – arrive at Oak Flat

Video from Skip’s boat of Green Wall and Little Green Wall:

Photos by Will Volpert:

York Creek
York Creek
Scouting the entrance to Green Wall
Scouting the entrance to Green Wall
Scouting Green Wall
Scouting Green Wall
Green Wall
Green Wall
Skip runs a rapid in the gorge
Another rapid in the gorge
Submarine Hole
Submarine Hole
Floating by Collier Creek
Floating by Collier Creek
Lower canyon scenery
Lower canyon scenery
Confluence of Silver Creek and the Illinois
Confluence of Silver Creek and the Illinois
Silver Creek entering the Illinois
Silver Creek entering the Illinois
Lower canyon scenery
Lower canyon scenery
Half mile upstream of Indigo Creek
Half mile upstream of Indigo Creek

North Fork Smith – January 10, 2016

smith-flow

A cool but dry winter day on the North Fork of the Smith began at 9:00 a.m. in Gasquet, California. Flow was lowish but the clear skies and sun made for an enjoyable day. We were off the river and back on the road around 4:30 p.m. The group consisted mainly of Eureka / Arcata folks. Gabe Howe (Siskiyou Mountain Club) and I traveled from Ashland and shared a boat with John Bartosz. Another fun day on the NF.

Group photo at the NF Smith put-in. Photo courtesy of Mark Barsonti.
Group photo at the NF Smith put-in. Photo courtesy of Mark Barsonti.
Mark Barsonti and crew entering Scout Rapid on the North Fork Smith
Mark Barsonti and crew entering Scout Rapid on the North Fork Smith
Mark Lindley and Steve  at the bottom of Scout Rapid on the North Fork Smith.
Mark Lindley and Steve at the bottom of Scout Rapid on the North Fork Smith.
Eddied out on the North Fork of the Smith River, California.
Eddied out on the North Fork of the Smith River, California.
Mark Lindley towards the bottom of Double-Double Rapid.
Mark Lindley at the bottom of Double-Double Rapid.
Bill Thorpe and crew running Double-Double on the NF Smith River.
Bill Thorpe and crew running Double-Double on the NF Smith River.

North Fork Smith – January 1, 2016

smith-flow

Having gone to bed by 9:30 on New Year’s Eve, we were plenty rested for our New Year’s Day NF Smith run. As we prepped and got ready, we awaited the arrival of Erik to pack up the Subaru and head to Gasquet, CA. After a challenging pack job to accommodate gear, two kayaks, raft with frame, P.G., four boaters and a shuttle driver, we were off. The sky was bluebird and the temp was steadily rising from a low of 45º F as we headed to Grant’s Pass to pick up the final member of our party.

We arrived at Barefoot Brad’s in Gasquet at 10:30, met up with our shuttle driver and began making our ascent up the FS road to the put-in. As we gained elevation, the snow covered more and more of the road but did not halt our progress as we plowed fresh tracks into the melting slush. We arrived at the put-in around 11:30 with smiles all around as the river called to us. After a lengthy set-up, we finally slid the boats into the NF Smith’s unbelievable clarity and pristine beauty beginning our 14 mile decent ending in Gasquet.

This being by far the lowest flow I had ever seen the NF, stoke levels were high as the excitement of the unknown manifested itself. Having done it several times at a foot higher, I knew to expect much rockier and shallow rapids with much tamer holes and slower current, this was certainly the case. We found out very quickly, the value of putting-on early or having sunglasses for this run on a clear day as the glare seems to stare directly into your eyes. The NF runs southwest carving its way to the ocean and reflects the sun upstream, adding a little extra spice to the run.

The main difference between this flow and the flows I had previously boated the NF at, was the line on Scout Rapid which is usually run on the right. At 9.5ft, a few options open up, however the best line seemed to be a right to left entry move behind the large top boulder using the slack water to ferry across above the main obstructing boulder and finishing the rapid on the left, up against the gorge wall. The right line was still available for a sporty raft or a kayak but a bit tricky. The following gorge rapid that is known to surpass the difficulty of Scout at certain flows, was very constricted but tame and slow with a pinch move on the left between the wall and the boulder in the middle which creates the turbulent feature at higher flows.

The rest of the run was shallow, busy read-n-run class III boulder gardens with the exception of Serpentine Slide which at higher flows connects the three sections of rapids into one mile long rapid. Although the gardens were distinguishable from one another, these pieces of the bigger picture stood out to make the most entertaining rapids on the run after Scout. Below Serpentine follows a succession of easier rapids coupled with the unrivaled beauty of the NF canyon and its famed Pitcher Plant population.

We reached the take-out at 199 around 4pm, celebrated a good trip, loaded the car and headed back home.

Illinois River – December 10, 2015

illinois-flow-12-10-15

The highest I had seen the Illinois prior to this trip was about 4700 CFS in Kerby. I had chatted with Aaron Babcock in the past year about wanting to see it at higher flows and when the flows were projected to spike, Aaron called and asked if I was still game. Nate Wilson joined too and the three of us met at Ray’s in Selma at 8:00 a.m.

On this trip the river peaked at exactly 10,000 CFS. My goal was to get an idea for what it would be like to bring a raft in at this flow. My impression now is that I would not want to run it at this flow in a raft, but regardless I’ve made some notes about some of the places I think would be problematic for rafts.

Having never been in a Creature Craft I was a little apprehensive but at the same time I’ve seen plenty of videos of folks with seemingly no skill move these things down chaotic rivers so my thought was “if they can I can” and that proved true on this trip. The Creature Craft itself felt awkward to me with tiny oars and a tendency to rock side to side but I also would not have been on the river if not for this boat.

The Illinois at 10k trip notes:

• We launched at McCaleb Ranch. From McCaleb to Miami Bar there was only one stand out rapid with a large wave/hole in the center, a cliff on the left, and an easy cheat on the right. The rapid was within half a mile of McCaleb Ranch. At this flow, it is faster to float the river from McCaleb Ranch to Miami Bar than drive to Miami Bar.

• Below Miami Bar the first significant action occurred at Panther Creek. The boulder field on river left was underwater and you can actually cheat left around the left turn. Then move right. The last section of Labrador Creek is huge with irregular waves that could easily cause chaos in a raft and current flows quickly into Nome Creek rapids. It would be a roll of the dice to keep a raft upright in Labrador Creek.

Nome Creek – the river bends right and you should stick to the inside bend. There are large reflection waves off the wall on the left at the bottom of the rapid.

Above BFR – large waves but we cheated right. BFR was no big deal to the right.

Rapid below BFR – we entered left of center and moved right. Some large holes to look out for but would not be terrible in a raft.

York Creek – cheated way right against the bank. No problem.

Upper and Lower Clear Creek – would be a very difficult rapid in a raft. At Upper Clear Creek you’ll want to go way right to avoid chaos near the wall on river left. However, at Lower Clear Creek you would want to be way left. Between the two is a string of huge lateral waves pushing left to right, with one very large hole. I couldn’t tell if the huge hole extended all the way to the left bank. If it did, it would effectively close off a left sneak. If it didn’t, you would want to take a raft way left, which would be a challenging move against the laterals. Starting the move right-to-left towards the bottom of the wave train (at the top of the left turn to Lower Clear Creek) is probably too late to get left.

Pine Creek (Boat Eater) – you shouldn’t have a problem here left of center.

Klondike Creek – the river was actually flowing over the gravel bar immediately across from the mouth of the creek. I cheated way right and the cut the corner but there really wasn’t much there. From there to South Bend the water was moving but it’s all easy read-and-run. It would be squirrely in a raft but shouldn’t be problematic.

Prelude / Fawn Falls – the large boulders at the bottom were underwater and a large hole developed off the cliff on the left to the center of the river. Cheat right. I think in a raft you could cheat right against the right bank. There were some large waves right of center.

Green Wall – still the crux of the run. We didn’t scout. In a raft you would. I think there is a cheat down the left but there’s also a gigantic hole formed by the scout rocks. We went right in the entry and right of center in the main rapid. There was a wave that was 20+ feet tall in the middle of the rapid followed by some huge laterals. Your chances of keeping a raft upright where we went would be slim to none and recovery of any kind would be non-existent immediately below Green Wall. The current moves quickly to the pinch below Green Wall, with some reflection waves coming off the left and a room of doom to the left of the pinch.

Green Wall to Collier Creek – there are large rapids with large waves and places in rapids you would need to move across wave trains. Essentially, Green Wall to Collier Creek would be incredibly difficult in a raft. It’s also really continuous and rescue/recovery would be daunting.

Once you are to Collier Creek you shouldn’t have any problems.

We put in around 10:00 a.m. at McCaleb Ranch and took out at 2:30 p.m. We stopped for 15 minutes at Pine Flat.

Video from Aaron Babcock’s Creature Craft:

Middle Fork and South Fork Smith – November 2, 2015

flow

Despite low flows, the MF Smith Oregon Hole Gorge and the SF Smith gorge were “good to go kind of.” One portage on the South Fork, but other than that we successfully slammed into rocks and scraped our way downstream.

Oregon Hole not so "holey" today.
Oregon Hole not so “holey” today.
Aaron Babcock and Thomas Hood R2ing on the Middle Fork Smith, California.
Aaron Babcock and Thomas Hood R2ing on the Middle Fork Smith, California.
Will Volpert and Thorn Lyons R2ing on the South Fork Smith, California. Photo credit: Aaron Babcock
Will Volpert and Thorn Lyons R2ing on the South Fork Smith, California. Photo credit: Aaron Babcock
Aaron Babcock and Thomas Hood on the South Fork Smith.
Aaron Babcock and Thomas Hood on the South Fork Smith.
Good times on the South Fork Smith.
Good times on the South Fork Smith.
South Fork of the Smith
South Fork of the Smith
Will and Thorn plugging up the South Fork Smith. Photo credit: Aaron Babcock
Will and Thorn plugging up the South Fork Smith. Photo credit: Aaron Babcock
Will Pischel on the South Fork Smith. Photo credit: Aaron Babcock
Will on the South Fork Smith. Photo credit: Aaron Babcock

Big Timber Creek – June 15, 2015

Big Timber creek defines the Crazy Mountains perfectly. Located 2 hours outside Bozeman, Big T flows directly out of the crazies. It’s rugged, scenic, and steep. Very steep, average gradient around 700 FPM. Whether or not you plan to run the creek the adventure is rewarding, it is well worth the hike for the beautiful waterfalls and granite slabs.

We initially hiked up the creek to scout the drops to see if it is actually possible to run it with a raft. About a half mile up the trail is Big Timber Falls. Big T falls is the burliest of the Timber Creek drops, it gives a good indicator of what’s ahead, long technical slides.

Scouting Big Timber Falls.
Scouting Big Timber Falls.

With a nervous walk we hiked another mile up the creek and arrived to a walking bridge, this is marker for the upper section take out. Another mile or so up is the classic Big Timber drops, the pinch, gambler, and plenty of other rapids in between. As we hiked up the trail we scurried down the creek to scout each and every drop. After getting our imagination pumped with excitement we decided to run back to the truck, and carry the raft up 3 miles.

We brought the boat to the bottom of the Pinch rapid. The Pinch is a fast, long drop, as the name indicates the rapid “pinches at the bottom” into a tight slot. Garrett and I decided to lower the boat directly below the pinch.

Once in the raft, Garrett and I took a deep breath and pushed off. From the start it was game on and spicy. Muy caliente.

Directions For Fun: From Bozeman drive on East I-90 towards the town of Big Timber (55 miles), at the town you want to connect to North 191 towards Half Moon Campground (26 miles). Beautiful drive on a bouncy dirty road, takes about an hour. At the campground is a parking lot for day hikers. Follow the trail up the creek. Half mile up the creek is a sign which point towards Big T Falls. Another mile up is a walking bridge across the creek. The bridge marks the take-out for the upper section. As the trails gains elevation you can walk down towards the creek to scout all the fun slides. Look at the drops for wood and safety.

Kootenai Creek – June 1, 2015

flowWhen the Bitterroot River is between 1K to 3K cfs, Kootenai Creek will be at a good level.

My good friend Nate Moody and I were looking for a specific adventure. As Middle Fork Salmon river guides we had limited time. First, we wanted to find a creek with an easy hike to class V whitewater. Second, at least one waterfall. Lastly, a brewery in close proximity to drink to our mini adventure. Granted, a lot to ask for, yet Kootenai Creek delivered on all three wishes.

From Salmon, Idaho we drove north on US-93 towards Victor, Montana. Took about 2 hours. 15 minutes or so past Victor, signs pointed us to the Kootenai trailhead, 5 minutes driving on dirt and boom we were there.

Before we geared up, we decided to hike up the trail to scout out the fun ahead; 400 yards from the parking lot we saw glorious whitewater. We continued another 3/4th of mile up to a 10ft waterfall. Below the drop, was a series of steep slides with many boofs and necessary moves. The final drop was a huge airplane turn into a big slide. The run looked about 1 mile long, and at least 250 FPM. Nervous and stoked, we ran back to the truck.

Scouting the run. Photo by Skip Volpert.
Scouting the run. Photo by Skip Volpert.

I decided to run the waterfall and Nate set safety below. A couple things about the 10 footer. The current above the drop is deceiving, there’s a diagonal wave which pushes left into a nasty room of doom against a rock. Basically, half the drop goes into this rock. Not good. I boofed as far right as I could to avoid the rock. Below the drop, it was game on. The creek was incredibly fast, giving us no time to eddy out till the last drop. At the bottom of the final drop, we had shit smiling grins and both of us decided to give it another go! 10 minute hike back up to the put-in and we did it again. And then again.
Pumped from Kootenai, we drove to the Bitterroot Brewery in Hamilton and eased our adrenaline with some tasty IPA’s. A successful day.

Making the move on the final drop. Photo by Skip Volpert.
Making the move on the final drop. Photo by Skip Volpert.
Hitting the final drop. Photo by Skip Volpert.
Hitting the final drop. Photo by Skip Volpert.