We had a huge group on the White Salmon this past week. Lots of inflatables, including two catarafts (Dave and Shelly Becker). I rowed a small 10′ Avon. Not sure if anyone has rowed the Truss before, but I doubt I would do it again.
It was a 9:00 to 5:00 day. Except we weren’t at work, there was plentiful beer consumption, and we were on the beautiful Illinois. Launched at 9 AM and took out at 5 PM. We pushed a little in the morning and relaxed in the afternoon to enjoy the canyon.
Stopped at Pine Flat to water the trees, a quick stop at South Bend to determine that, yes, it was snowing and then on to Prelude and Green Wall. We must have done something right because the snow/sleet/rain stuff stopped and the sun broke free long enough to get to the bottom of Green Wall and have a lunch atop a rock with a great view of the beautiful rapid.
With weather looking good (for January) and flows good-to-go, four of us found ourselves leaving Portland around 7 PM on Friday, January 9th, 2009. Bound for the Illinois, we thought that we could get to the put-in that night, rig, and push off for a camp just downstream under the nearly-full moon. Unfortunately, Tomas’s truck has a temperature gage. When we hit Grants Pass we noticed that it was 32 degrees F. In Selma it had fallen to 28. No matter how hard we tried to convince ourselves that we really wanted to freeze our butts off, the decision was easy to stay the night in the heated Rogue River Journeys guide house. So we did.
The next morning we headed to Miami Bar, rigged, and launched sometime around 10:30. We dabbled in the sun, stayed warm, and made camp at South Bend around 4:00. After screwing around with a fire, we decided that Duraflame truly does kick-ass and that Dex phone books make good paper to burn (our apologies to the Henrys, Ingrims, Jacksons, Klunky, and Livingston families for burning your phone numbers. We will just have to guess next time we want to call.). The night sky was absolutely amazing with a fierce moon, wavy clouds, and a rolling fog.
The morning brought us some cold temps, so we jet boiled coffee from within the tents and waited for it to warm. And waited. And waited some more. We ended up leaving camp at the crack of noon and proceded to Prelude, where both boats went right. At Green Wall we ran the entry rapid and caught an eddy on the left. We scouted the entire rapid, hiking down to the lower drop to check out the hole at the bottom. It looked pretty big with a tight line on the left, but that will happen sometimes, and there didn’t seem much else left to do besides run the rapid. I suggested that we run “1-2-3” and not set safety at the bottom, just stay tight. Chip vetoed that by reminding me that it simply wasn’t possible, we had to run “1-2” because we only had two boats. That seemed ok so we headed back up, Kathy and Dana jumped in, and we were on our way.
The left slot of the top drop was pretty bony. Chip and Kathy dropped in first and got wedged pretty well. Dana and I were right behind them and hung out in the eddy not more than five feet from their boat. When they got unstuck we followed suit and got stuck. They exited the rapid as we pushed off and it wasn’t long until we joined them at the bottom. The sun broke free of the canyon wall and shone against the river-right side of Green Wall. Green Wall is a really pretty rapid, especially when you are at the bottom looking up.
Everything went pretty well from there down. Little Green Wall and everything through Submarine was a blast as always. We reached Oak Flat at 5 PM and loaded up the truck. Got back to Portland around 1:30 AM. Another great Illinois trip, can’t wait to get back.
So much for “forecasted flow”… The Illinois was projected to hit 4000 CFS two days before this trip. Instead, it barely touched 1300 and we were left with a bony flow. Jason Fisher and Jo Schroeder, guides for Idaho River Journeys on the Middle Fork and Main Salmon rivers, had flown out for an “epic high water trip” but were left with rocks high and dry. We hit the Molalla with Ryan Morgan at flood stage in our small 10′ Avon on Thursday and then headed south for a low water run on the Illinois. The weather forecast called for sun and sun and sun… thus securing our chances of an “epic low water flow.” But, the Illinois never disappoints, and we got to experience the river the way very few rafters ever get to see it.
As always, Galice Resort provided our shuttle van and trailer, for which they deserve a HUGE THANK YOU. Also, if you ever have Floyd as your shuttle driver you must ask him about his Illinois river trip. The next morning he showed me some great shots of his run nearly 30 years ago. River people and their history on this amazing river are truly amazing and we were lucky to meet him and have him share his story with us.
We put on at Miami Bar around 9:30 AM after spending the night at the Rogue River Journeys guide house, approximately 200 yards from the Illinois River Road. The river was absolutely beautiful: crystal clear water, fun, technical rapids, and clear blue skies. At this flow, the river is extraordinarly slow between the rapids so we only made it to South Bend camp for the night. We had hoped to get below Green Wall and the lower gorge but the fear of darkness kept us from heading downstream.
After an early breakfast the next morning, we got on the water at 8:30 AM and headed off to Prelude. The typical drop on the left had a rock sticking out right in the middle that the rafts kept getting stuck on. But, it seemed like the best way through so we pushed and bumped and grinded our way down. At Green Wall, I ran the entry and proceeded to get stuck on river left. Our three kayakers helped pull me back into an eddy and after some debate we gave the “no go” sign to the rest of the boats. They hiked down from the top of the entry rapid.
Green Wall looked bizarre. Slot “B” was not even an option and “A” was definitely the way to go. It led into a small hole, followed by a move left and then a quick cut right at the bottom. “Harvey” was not a hole at all, just an exposed horrible looking wrap rock. All of our rafts made it through, with Scott taking a more interesting way through the bottom which led to an upside down boat.
After Green Wall, it was just technical boating all the way down to Submarine. At Submarine, I asked my brother Skip to lead the way and give the aye or nay sign. He was running a 10-foot Avon and made it through cleanly but gave the nay sign. It was a very tight slot on the left. The right side showed an even tighter line so we deflated some tubes and pushed down, hoping to squeeze through. It must have helped, because with some jumping around we managed to get through the slot without any helping hands.
From there, it was a slow push to Oak Flat, completing the trip. Many thanks to Galice, Rogue River Journeys, and the gang we were with.
Trip participants:
Jason Fisher, Jo Schroder, Dana Woodruff, Skip Volpert, Will Volpert, Scott Fine, Nick Ellis, Erin Ellis, Aaron, Mike, Chris Uhtoff, Andreas, Alan Douglas, Emilie Entriken, and Scott Fine.
After Jo and Jason (fellow Idaho River Journeys guides) showed up in Portland I called Ryan Morgan to ask about boating plans. He couldn’t join us for the Illinois later in the week, but he did want to show us the Molalla… at flood stage. I had the choice between taking a 14′ Avon Adventurer or 10′ Avon dubbed “Rosie” – and chose poorly. Grabbed the 10-footer and we began the drive to Molalla. Met Ryan in the morning.
The original plan was to run an upper stretch but after seeing how flooded the river was Ryan decided that it would be best not to. We put on the Goldilocks stretch and hit was a hoot. Except it felt like the 10′ raft was a little small for the three of us. Ryan kayaked and showed us the way through most of the stuff. It was moving so fast… until we got to one of the rapids and there were logs everywhere. We pulled over on river-left and scouted. The normal run, as Ryan told us, was blocked by quite a few logs. So, we entered farther left than normal and worked right. Here’s how Ryan put it (in a post to PDXKayaker):
“A group of us headed out to the Molalla today. The river was predictably high, but great fun. I had my playboat and we also had a 10′ raft with an R3 crew. We opted to run from the Old Bridge to the Cedars since the flow was so high, roughly 5,800 at Canby and falling) (The Cedars is a day use site downstream of Glen Avon, but above Feyrer park) We moved fast, but everything was easy to boat scout. The bears were big and fun. There is no new wood in the upper river to
Baby Bear. (There is still wood in the right channel of the first island rapid below Horse creek canyon) Goldilocks however has gotten more difficult. I spotted new wood so we quickly grabbed an eddy for a scout. The water was just going over the wood that has been stuck at the bottom left making the right side line the only option. Unfortunately, there are now two large logs blocking the entrance to the right channel requiring a challenging ferry and a tough cut to the right above the big rock with the old wood on it. We both made it through, but not without some tense moments and hard paddling. All in all, a great day on the water. We covered the run in just over 2 hours. If anyone is interested, I might be up for the Table Rock Fork tomorrow as it should be at a great level.”
As far as I know, Ryan knew the Molalla better than anyone.
Here are some photos from this trip:
Trip report written by Will Volpert.
Once again, called Ryan Morgan and he came through big time to find a great run for us. The Truss was wicked low for a raft run but the Orletta Stretch is the section between the bottom of Little Zigzag and the BZ put in. The hike down with a raft it brutal. The first run we did on October 26th we carried the inflated raft down the creek bed. That was heinous. The next Sunday on the 2nd, Dana and I hiked in with a rolled raft. That too was difficult. Maybe there is no easy way.
Nonetheless, once you actually do get down to the river you are treated with some great class III and IV drops for about two miles. It is fairly continuous initially, and then mellows. It picks up again just above The Flume. After the Flume, there is short rapid that bends to the right. Make sure you eddy out immediately after this drop. BZ Falls is just downstream. Scout from the right. Both times we ghost boated the raft and I jumped in just after the falls off the cliffs on the right.
Trip report written by Will Volpert. Flows were around 2700 CFS.
With no rain and low flows all around, I was about to give up hope on finding a new stretch of water nearby to explore. My friend Alan Jones sent an email about a trip on the North Santiam and I was intrigued. It sounded like mellow water but fun none-the-less. I’d run an upper stretch of the North Santiam with Ryan Morgan previously, so called him and asked him about the run. He mentioned something about a Niagra stretch just upstream and that we could even tie it into Alan’s run if we wanted. This sounded good; so the next morning I loaded up a boat, two paddles, a beautiful girlfriend and off we went.
We ran into Alan’s crew at the take-out as we were dropping off our shuttle rig. It was good to see Alan. I ran the Illinois with him last April and had a blast. He has great stories, is a tremendous boater, and is one of the kindest people I know. We chatted for a little bit and then headed off to our respective put-ins.
The put-in for the Niagra stretch wasn’t too bad for a raft. There was a winding trail down to the river but it was easier to just rope the boat down to the water. It’s an Avon, so you don’t have to be delicate with it like a Sotar 🙂 Just joking. I guess I’m an official Oregon boater now so may as well get used to seeing the plastic boats.
Anyway, roped the boat down and off we went! Pretty canyon, cold water, and mainly class II greeted us for the first stretch of the Niagra Run. Then we hit a rapid dubbed “The Narrows”. Ryan ran it cleanly but in the raft we decided to portage the first drop. It certainly looked doable but not optimal; and with an easy portage the decision was easy. I hate to portage but when it is easy and you’re not up for game, it’s the way to go. We paddled out the second drop and through the cool canyon just below.
Next up was Niagra, which is well-known for the narrow exit at the bottom. We had fun bouncing down the start of the rapid (not difficult at this flow) and eddied out on the left just before the exit. Watched Ryan go through and then pushed off. Pretty slow and easy so no problems there.
The last obstacle of the Niagra stretch is the dam. The reversal is heinous looking. We portaged on the right, next to the signs that say “NO TRESPASSING.” Oh well.
We then ran the stretch below Niagra which is maybe seven or eight miles in length. It was nice to be on the water. Mellow. There are maybe one, two, or three class II+ or III rapids. But, with great company that is ok. This day on the water made me realize how great it is to have friends like Ryan Morgan, Alan Jones, and my girlfriend Dana. My best boating friends seem to always expand my river horizon lines and for that there is much appreciation. To more river days and great friends!
The Sandy River Gorge is beautiful. Skip and I were looking for something new for both of us and the Sandy fit the bill. Chip was kind enough to let us borrow his 8′ Mini-Me and it was the perfect boat for this run.
The flow was somewhere between 500 and 600 CFS which was low but definitely not the bottom end for rafts. Got hung up in two places, once in the first half mile at some gravel bar and then again right above the take-out in the middle of Revenue Bridge Rapids. Other than that, this was a perfectly reasonable run for small rafts.
We put-in at the end of the PGE Private Road. Access was not too bad. We took out at Revenue Bridge. Since neither of us had done this run before we didn’t realize the lack of traffic going up the road until we got there. This made hitching a ride pretty tough but eventually a local guy named Ron picked me up and took me all the way to the put-in. THANK YOU RON! Nice folks in this area.
Once on the water we were treated to lots of fun read-run whitewater. We stopped at a few places to take a peak and check for wood but in the Mini-Me stopping mid-rapid was a breeze. Saw two IKers out but that was it for people. One big steelehead so I guess the fishing is in.
Anyway, a fun run. Definitely looking forward to seeing the Sandy Gorge at higher water. Here are a few photos:
After a summer of guiding on the Middle Fork of the Salmon, Skip and I headed back to Oregon to find places to live and new rivers to see. The first run of the Fall for us was the White Salmon. I think this is sometimes referred to as the “Middle White Salmon” or perhaps the BZ Corner stretch? I’m not sure. The put-in is awesome though. You slide your boat down a crazy ramp maze. Our take-out location was just below Husum Falls on the left. There’s a small pullout with a bunch kayaking trucks normally parked there. Easy to find.
Aside from Skip and I, joining us was Aaron (had never rafted before and just wanted to get outside) and Zach from Echo River Trips. Zach was kayaking so the rest of us were R3ing an Avon Adventurer.
It was definitely a little boney for a 14′ raft but we made it through without getting stuck or scraping rocks too badly. The majority of the run is class II with maybe two or three class III rapids. Of course, Husum Falls is a cool looking rapid. It’s a class IV kinda-waterfall, maybe eight vertical feet. Very easy to put the boat in the right place but also easy to get launched out the back, which is exactly what happened.
This last Saturday was the BLM sponsored “Rogue River Clean-up” from Hog Creek to Grave Creek. RRJ took a group of 26 students and parents from the Jacoby Creek Middle School to help pick-up trash. With flows just under 6,000 CFS, most of the trash was probably floating on downstream, however we still managed to pick up a lot of junk.
After the river clean up and lunch, Chip, Dana, and I headed back to Selma, cleaned up after the trip, and then drove down to Miami Bar on the Illinois. We left Selma around 8:15 PM on Saturday night and arrived at Miami Bar around 9:15. With a near-full moon over our heads, we pushed off at 10:00 PM and floated a quick mile to camp.
Due to the trip being somewhat spur-of-the-moment and mainly because we had no desire to spend time packing, here is what we had with us:
-6 bagels
-1 jar of jelly from Rose
-1 pound of beef jerky
-Some really good smoked tuna
-3 apples
-A few cliff bars
-12 PBRs
-12 MGDs
-12 Budweisers
-6 Black Butte Porters
Clearly we have priorities.
We fell asleep under the stars and woke up to a beautifully clear morning. We got up and tried to find something to do like breakdown the kitchen but soon realized that we didn’t have a kitchen. I went to breakdown the groover and then realized that we didn’t have a groover. Next up was the fire pan but, alas, we did not have one of those either. So, we threw our sleeping bags in the boats and pushed off at 7:00 AM sharp. By 8:30 AM we were at Pine Flat. We passed Klondike at 8:50. Soon after we caught up with a group and decided to pull over and eat some brunch.
After filling ourselves with bagels and smoked tuna, we continued downstream and reached South Bend at 10:35 AM. As we floated around the corner at South Bend, the Illinois River Circus pulled out in front of us and stared blankly downstream. They weren’t moving at the same pace so we waited to see if they would pull over before Prelude. Another group ahead of them seemed to be scouting Prelude from every angle possible and, from the looks of things, the Circus Act was about to begin. We pushed ahead (to a few grumbling voices, sorry about that) and headed down to Green Wall.
At Green Wall our plan was to run through without stopping to scout and just see what happens. We took two different routes and both worked out fairly well. I entered center and Chip entered far left. At the bottom we hung out for a brief second before pushing on down. As we floated through the narrows below the riffle after Green Wall we looked back upstream and saw what appeared to be an upside down blue boat heading our way. Apparently, the Show had started and carnage had begun! The boat eddied out on its own before the riffle but some of its contents didn’t. An oar came floating down with a few other miscellaneous items. We were able to collect the stuff and put it on a rock on the river bank where we hoped they could find it later.
With circus music playing in the background upstream, birds chirping along, the sun beaming a glorious 80-degree ray upon our heads, evidence of carnage floating by, and icy-cold beverages within arms reach, all I could think was “damn, I love this river.”
We made it to Oak Flat by 2:30 PM and back in Selma by 6:15 PM. A truly wonderful trip with the best company possible.
Here are some pictures:
